Saturday, December 15, 2007
Encinitas truly is one of the most beauty-FULL spots in the world, at least from what I have seen. I'm so inspired by the climate, nature and indigenous plant life in southern California. I am my highest while planting, gardening, walking the coast, soaking up winter sun...today it was surfing.
The culture here is surfing. Everyone surfs - kids, women, teens, seniors, even dogs! So when in Rome...today I bought a wet suit, some booties & joined in the 58 degree fun. Gratefully I had friends to show me the way.
I love the ocean & was so excited to be in her again. I am at home - held by mother earth in her vast, open arms. Just fills me up with happiness.
The surf culture is so fascinating to me and I have so much respect for it. Every "break" has a name with local surfers, swell & a very sexy lingo. I've heard it before, and now see that surfing is a metaphor for life. The ocean is life with waves we ride, ups & downs, crashes, wipe-outs, taken under, fear...duality is serenity, calm, peace, beauty & joy. Other surfers are our relationships: competitive, aggressive, respectful, cordial, playful, courageous, risk taking. Surfers coast the waves full of bumps & adventure.
It goes on & on...and I so look forward unfolding my surfing career.